Description
89-91 / 100
William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Aromas of cherries, licorice, smoked meats, orange rind and espresso roast introduce the 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Village, a medium to full-bodied, lively and enveloping wine that's succulent and nicely concentrated, concluding with a long, sapid finish. Already quite integrated, this is promising. As I wrote last year, Christian Sérafin has handed over the reins at this small Gevrey-Chambertin domaine to his daughter Karine and niece Frédérique Goulley, but the house style with which readers will be familiar hasn't changed: ripe, destemmed grapes; warm fermentations to extract color and tannin; and maturation in lavishly toasty new oak. It's a style that marks the wines strongly in their youth, harking back to the red Burgundies of the 1990s, but which has an established track record of developing well in the cellar. Of course, the new generation is making subtle changes: above all, in the vineyards, Karine has planted cover crops, and she now refrains from systematic leaf pulling to protect the fruit in the sunnier, warmer vintages that are becoming the norm in contemporary Burgundy—modifications that bore dividends in the balmy 2018 vintage. On this visit, I looked at the domaine's decidedly successful 2018s, wines I found already nicely integrated and harmonious, with lovely purity of fruit and savory nuance. Harvest began on September 3, and finished alcohols range between 13% and 14.2%. I also revisited the domaine's 2017s from bottle, and they met or surpassed.
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